王大仁與巴黎世家分手

There is another major job opening in fashion.Kering, the French luxury goods conglomerate, announced on Friday that the designerAlexander Wang was leaving the helm of Balenciaga after less than three years by “jointdecision.

時尚業(yè)又出現(xiàn)了一個重大職位空缺。周五(7月31日)，法國奢侈品集團(tuán)開云(Kering)宣布，設(shè)計師王大仁(Alexander Wang)將不再執(zhí)掌巴黎世家(Balenciaga)，稱“這一決定是雙方共同做出的。王大仁在巴黎世家供職不到三年。

Mr. Wang will concentrate on his namesake brand, based in New York, which he maintainedduring his time as creative director at Balenciaga. A search has begun for his successor inFrance.

王大仁將專注于自己在紐約的同名品牌;在擔(dān)任巴黎世家的創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)期間，他同時經(jīng)營自己的品牌。集團(tuán)已經(jīng)開始在法國尋找他的接任者。

No specific reason was given for the split, though according to a person close to thenegotiations who spoke on the condition of anonymity, Mr. Wang is about to announce aminority investment in his own brand.

聲明中沒有說明雙方終止合作的具體原因，不過據(jù)一位了解談判內(nèi)情的匿名人士說，王大仁即將宣布有一筆少數(shù)股權(quán)投資到他自己的品牌。

Mr. Wang was named to the top design post in 2023 after Nicolas Ghesquière, who hadrevitalized the brand since taking over in 1997, left over creative differences with Kering’smanagement.

1997年，尼古拉斯·蓋斯奇埃爾(Nicolas Ghesquière)接管巴黎世家，使之重獲新生，2023年，因與開云集團(tuán)管理層在創(chuàng)意方面的分歧，蓋斯奇埃爾離開該品牌，之后王大仁獲任該頂級設(shè)計職位。

The appointment surprised the fashion world, as Mr. Wang, then 28, was known for the hip,downtown aesthetic embodied by his own brand, as opposed to a couture sensibility.

當(dāng)時這項任命震驚了時尚界，因為時年28歲的王大仁以時尚的城市審美聞名(他自己的品牌就是典型代表)，而不是高級定制時裝的那種感覺。

Balenciaga is considered one of Kering’s “emerging luxury brands, along with StellaMcCartney, Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane and others. Analysts estimate thatBalenciaga alone has annual revenue of 350 million euros ($387 million), which would representless than 5 percent of Kering’s overall luxury revenue, based on results released this week.

巴黎世家被認(rèn)為是開云集團(tuán)的“新興奢侈品牌之一，其他類似的品牌包括斯特拉·麥卡特尼(StellaMcCartney)、亞歷山大·麥昆(Alexander McQueen)和克里斯托弗·凱恩(Christopher Kane)等。分析師們估計，巴黎世家的年收入為3.5億歐元(約合3.87億美元)。根據(jù)本周發(fā)布的數(shù)據(jù)，這占開云集團(tuán)奢侈品總收入的不到5%。

Reports that Mr. Wang was about to leave the 96-year-old brand surfaced this week inWomen’s Wear Daily.

本周(具體來說是7月29日——譯注)，關(guān)于王大仁即將離開這個有96年歷史的品牌的報道最早出現(xiàn)在《女裝日報》(Women’s Wear Daily)上。

In a statement on Friday, Isabelle Guichot, chief executive of Balenciaga, said: “We are all atBalenciaga extremely grateful to Alexander for his important contribution to the style andhistory of this iconic house. The dynamic growth of the brand over the last years bearstestimony to his successful creative work.

在周五的聲明中，巴黎世家的首席執(zhí)行官伊莎貝拉·吉紹(Isabelle Guichot)說，“巴黎世家的所有人都十分感激亞歷山大為這個標(biāo)志性的時裝公司的風(fēng)格和歷史做出的貢獻(xiàn)。該品牌在過去幾年里的蓬勃發(fā)展是他成功的創(chuàng)造性工作的明證。

According to Thomas Chauvet, an analyst covering luxury goods at Citi Investment Research,the growth at Balenciaga was slower than that of similar smaller brands, and that may havecontributed to Kering’s decision to make a change.

據(jù)花旗投資研究公司(Citi Investment Research)的奢侈品分析師托馬斯·肖韋(Thomas Chauvet)稱，巴黎世家的增長速度慢于類似的更小的品牌，這可能是開云集團(tuán)決定做出改變的原因之一。

Still, Mr. Chauvet said, “it is a shame Alexander Wang is being replaced, because it will takeanother 12 months to get a new creative direction and products in place.

不過，肖韋說，“王大仁被換掉挺可惜的，因為要找到新的創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)并推出新產(chǎn)品需要再花12個月的時間。

Mr. Wang’s appointment was counter to industry wisdom about the demands of maintainingone’s own brand while overseeing another. When John Galliano was fired from Dior in 2011over anti-Semitic remarks, he attributed his behavior to the pressure of being responsible fortwo brands (his own as well as Dior).

當(dāng)年王大仁的任命與該行業(yè)的經(jīng)驗相悖——在經(jīng)營自己品牌的同時監(jiān)管另一個品牌是很大的挑戰(zhàn)。2011年，約翰·加利亞諾(John Galliano)因反猶太言論被迪奧(Dior)解聘時稱，自己做出那樣的行為是因為同時負(fù)責(zé)兩個品牌(他自己的品牌和迪奧)壓力太大。

After Mr. Wang’s appointment, however, many young designers took on dual roles, includingJonathan Anderson at Loewe, Zac Posen at Brooks Brothers and Jeremy Scott at Moschino.

不過，王大仁獲得任命后，很多年輕設(shè)計師都擔(dān)任了雙重職位，比如喬納森·安德森(Jonathan Anderson)兼任羅意威(Loewe)的設(shè)計師，扎克·波森(Zac Posen)兼任布魯克斯兄弟(Brooks Brothers)的設(shè)計師，杰里米·斯科特(Jeremy Scott)兼任Moschino的設(shè)計師。

Mr. Wang’s 10 collections for Balenciaga met with a generally positive reaction, though nosingle look or accessory proved a blockbuster. “Wang has done an O.K. job, but not the superjob Kering was hoping for, said Luca Solca, head of luxury goods research at Exane BNPParibas.

王大仁為巴黎世家設(shè)計的十個系列總的來說獲得了正面反響，但沒有哪個造型或配飾曾引起轟動。“王大仁的表現(xiàn)還可以，但是沒有開云集團(tuán)期望得那么卓越，巴黎銀行(Exane BNP Paribas)的奢侈品研究主管盧卡·索爾卡(Luca Solca)說。

The end of the relationship may revive the case for having a designer who can devotecreative capital to a single house.

這段合作關(guān)系結(jié)束后，尋找能把全部創(chuàng)作精力用于一個時裝公司的設(shè)計師可能會成為新的潮流。

“Kering needs a designer that can really propel it to a higher level, Mr. Solca said. “It shouldbe next in line to blossom into a bigger business.

“開云集團(tuán)需要一個真正能把巴黎世家推向更高層次的設(shè)計師，索爾卡說，“巴黎世家應(yīng)該是下一個成就更大事業(yè)的時裝公司。

Mr. Wang’s last show for Balenciaga will be on Oct. 2 in Paris.

王大仁為巴黎世家設(shè)計的最后一個時裝秀將于10月2日在巴黎舉辦。

There is another major job opening in fashion.Kering, the French luxury goods conglomerate, announced on Friday that the designerAlexander Wang was leaving the helm of Balenciaga after less than three years by “jointdecision.

時尚業(yè)又出現(xiàn)了一個重大職位空缺。周五(7月31日)，法國奢侈品集團(tuán)開云(Kering)宣布，設(shè)計師王大仁(Alexander Wang)將不再執(zhí)掌巴黎世家(Balenciaga)，稱“這一決定是雙方共同做出的。王大仁在巴黎世家供職不到三年。

Mr. Wang will concentrate on his namesake brand, based in New York, which he maintainedduring his time as creative director at Balenciaga. A search has begun for his successor inFrance.

王大仁將專注于自己在紐約的同名品牌;在擔(dān)任巴黎世家的創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)期間，他同時經(jīng)營自己的品牌。集團(tuán)已經(jīng)開始在法國尋找他的接任者。

No specific reason was given for the split, though according to a person close to thenegotiations who spoke on the condition of anonymity, Mr. Wang is about to announce aminority investment in his own brand.

聲明中沒有說明雙方終止合作的具體原因，不過據(jù)一位了解談判內(nèi)情的匿名人士說，王大仁即將宣布有一筆少數(shù)股權(quán)投資到他自己的品牌。

Mr. Wang was named to the top design post in 2023 after Nicolas Ghesquière, who hadrevitalized the brand since taking over in 1997, left over creative differences with Kering’smanagement.

1997年，尼古拉斯·蓋斯奇埃爾(Nicolas Ghesquière)接管巴黎世家，使之重獲新生，2023年，因與開云集團(tuán)管理層在創(chuàng)意方面的分歧，蓋斯奇埃爾離開該品牌，之后王大仁獲任該頂級設(shè)計職位。

The appointment surprised the fashion world, as Mr. Wang, then 28, was known for the hip,downtown aesthetic embodied by his own brand, as opposed to a couture sensibility.

當(dāng)時這項任命震驚了時尚界，因為時年28歲的王大仁以時尚的城市審美聞名(他自己的品牌就是典型代表)，而不是高級定制時裝的那種感覺。

Balenciaga is considered one of Kering’s “emerging luxury brands, along with StellaMcCartney, Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane and others. Analysts estimate thatBalenciaga alone has annual revenue of 350 million euros ($387 million), which would representless than 5 percent of Kering’s overall luxury revenue, based on results released this week.

巴黎世家被認(rèn)為是開云集團(tuán)的“新興奢侈品牌之一，其他類似的品牌包括斯特拉·麥卡特尼(StellaMcCartney)、亞歷山大·麥昆(Alexander McQueen)和克里斯托弗·凱恩(Christopher Kane)等。分析師們估計，巴黎世家的年收入為3.5億歐元(約合3.87億美元)。根據(jù)本周發(fā)布的數(shù)據(jù)，這占開云集團(tuán)奢侈品總收入的不到5%。

Reports that Mr. Wang was about to leave the 96-year-old brand surfaced this week inWomen’s Wear Daily.

本周(具體來說是7月29日——譯注)，關(guān)于王大仁即將離開這個有96年歷史的品牌的報道最早出現(xiàn)在《女裝日報》(Women’s Wear Daily)上。

In a statement on Friday, Isabelle Guichot, chief executive of Balenciaga, said: “We are all atBalenciaga extremely grateful to Alexander for his important contribution to the style andhistory of this iconic house. The dynamic growth of the brand over the last years bearstestimony to his successful creative work.

在周五的聲明中，巴黎世家的首席執(zhí)行官伊莎貝拉·吉紹(Isabelle Guichot)說，“巴黎世家的所有人都十分感激亞歷山大為這個標(biāo)志性的時裝公司的風(fēng)格和歷史做出的貢獻(xiàn)。該品牌在過去幾年里的蓬勃發(fā)展是他成功的創(chuàng)造性工作的明證。

According to Thomas Chauvet, an analyst covering luxury goods at Citi Investment Research,the growth at Balenciaga was slower than that of similar smaller brands, and that may havecontributed to Kering’s decision to make a change.

據(jù)花旗投資研究公司(Citi Investment Research)的奢侈品分析師托馬斯·肖韋(Thomas Chauvet)稱，巴黎世家的增長速度慢于類似的更小的品牌，這可能是開云集團(tuán)決定做出改變的原因之一。

Still, Mr. Chauvet said, “it is a shame Alexander Wang is being replaced, because it will takeanother 12 months to get a new creative direction and products in place.

不過，肖韋說，“王大仁被換掉挺可惜的，因為要找到新的創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)并推出新產(chǎn)品需要再花12個月的時間。

Mr. Wang’s appointment was counter to industry wisdom about the demands of maintainingone’s own brand while overseeing another. When John Galliano was fired from Dior in 2011over anti-Semitic remarks, he attributed his behavior to the pressure of being responsible fortwo brands (his own as well as Dior).

當(dāng)年王大仁的任命與該行業(yè)的經(jīng)驗相悖——在經(jīng)營自己品牌的同時監(jiān)管另一個品牌是很大的挑戰(zhàn)。2011年，約翰·加利亞諾(John Galliano)因反猶太言論被迪奧(Dior)解聘時稱，自己做出那樣的行為是因為同時負(fù)責(zé)兩個品牌(他自己的品牌和迪奧)壓力太大。

After Mr. Wang’s appointment, however, many young designers took on dual roles, includingJonathan Anderson at Loewe, Zac Posen at Brooks Brothers and Jeremy Scott at Moschino.

不過，王大仁獲得任命后，很多年輕設(shè)計師都擔(dān)任了雙重職位，比如喬納森·安德森(Jonathan Anderson)兼任羅意威(Loewe)的設(shè)計師，扎克·波森(Zac Posen)兼任布魯克斯兄弟(Brooks Brothers)的設(shè)計師，杰里米·斯科特(Jeremy Scott)兼任Moschino的設(shè)計師。

Mr. Wang’s 10 collections for Balenciaga met with a generally positive reaction, though nosingle look or accessory proved a blockbuster. “Wang has done an O.K. job, but not the superjob Kering was hoping for, said Luca Solca, head of luxury goods research at Exane BNPParibas.

王大仁為巴黎世家設(shè)計的十個系列總的來說獲得了正面反響，但沒有哪個造型或配飾曾引起轟動。“王大仁的表現(xiàn)還可以，但是沒有開云集團(tuán)期望得那么卓越，巴黎銀行(Exane BNP Paribas)的奢侈品研究主管盧卡·索爾卡(Luca Solca)說。

The end of the relationship may revive the case for having a designer who can devotecreative capital to a single house.

這段合作關(guān)系結(jié)束后，尋找能把全部創(chuàng)作精力用于一個時裝公司的設(shè)計師可能會成為新的潮流。

“Kering needs a designer that can really propel it to a higher level, Mr. Solca said. “It shouldbe next in line to blossom into a bigger business.

“開云集團(tuán)需要一個真正能把巴黎世家推向更高層次的設(shè)計師，索爾卡說，“巴黎世家應(yīng)該是下一個成就更大事業(yè)的時裝公司。

Mr. Wang’s last show for Balenciaga will be on Oct. 2 in Paris.

王大仁為巴黎世家設(shè)計的最后一個時裝秀將于10月2日在巴黎舉辦。